Singapore Story.

The best prawns I have ever eaten were somewhere near Bugis Market, Singapore in 2010. I can still taste them now. We’d flown the red eye from Heathrow to Singapore and landed at 18:45 local time in Changi Airport. Already dark and body clocks still firmly planted in UK day time, we checked in to the the Ibis on Bencoolen and wandered out into the balmy evening.

Naively, we really hadn’t done any research on Singapore and therefore had no pressure to get through an itinerary, so we aimlessly strolled through Bugis market and came across an unassuming Chinese restaurant serving food to Singaporeans sitting at white plastic tables in the humid evening air.

It was November, rainy season, the 98% humidity was stifling and the empty table was rather inviting. Plus, it was within our modest spending budget. Our ‘chubby white baby’ sat in her buggy, eyes wide open lavishing all the attention whilst the waitress brought out an ice cold Tsingtao to accompany a plate of chilli king prawns. 

I can see the pearls of condensation running down the green glass bottle now, the prawns were as fresh as they were delicious and there was a certain magic in the air. It really goes to show that the very best dining experiences come out of the most modest local eateries. 

The trip had gotten off to a stellar start. We were heading to Singapore for a 4 night stop en route to WA for our wedding. Keen to avoid the whole wedding shenanigans (neither of us are much into parties), we had kept the wedding quiet and so there was a romantic excitement lingering in the air. My father-in-law drove us to the airport and with his penchant for punctuality, we arrived a good three hours before our scheduled departure time. Navigating our way to the check in desk with a buggy, a board bag, a wedding dress box, travel cot and luggage for a month, we certainly weren’t travelling light. The Qantas attendant must have taken pity on us, as she handed us our tickets.

“I’ve upgraded your seats to Premium Economy.”

I didn’t even know what that was. Champagne on boarding, reclining seats, a top class meal, Toy Story 3 and a five month old Koko who, thanks to the gentle rocking motion of the fuselage, slept for ten hours straight in her bassinet for the very first time. I felt like I’d hit the jackpot. I hadn’t had a full night’s sleep in five months, much less been anywhere to drink champagne, and as it was all too dreamy to miss, I fought against the desire to sleep so that I could soak it up for a few hours. The whole trip was in many ways the bravest thing I had ever done.

I embraced my inner rhino and bit the bullet.

They say fortune favours the brave.

My grandparents met in Singapore in the 50’s and so I’d always felt drawn to the city-state. It’s a rich melting pot of cultures, religions, cuisine and history combined with incredible cleanliness and an MRT so efficient that it can be navigated by a four and an eight year old. I often hear people say they dislike Singapore because it feels too clinical. And I wonder if they’ve missed something.

Before returning for a 3rd trip in 2018, we sat with my grandparents and they told the girls what Singapore used to be like when they lived there and showed us their photos. My grandmother, who has always been an excellent cook, explained how she and her parents had learned to create Singaporean cuisine at home. Varying from Malay to Indian to Chinese, my grandmother used to make these at home, back before the days when takeaway food became commonplace. 

In 2018, we stayed at the Destination Hotel on Beach Road, which is in close proximity to the vibrant colours of Little India, Chinatown and Clarke Quay, with Nicoll Highway MRT station a three minute walk away. More importantly, it is also located opposite the Golden Mile Food Centre. Food and Hawker centres were Singapore’s way of regulating unhygienic street food preparation and were first developed back in the 50’s, when they gained a rather poor reputation for offering budget eating options.

Today, they house some of the best eateries in the city, with some stalls even being awarded a Michelin Star. The best thing about these centres is that they offer a cultural experience alongside exceptional food. Each stall makes a single family dish, perfected over generations and made hundreds of times every single day. Observing the food prep is like watching a magic show. Skill, precision and focus all combine for a fascinating spectacle. 

We made a daily evening trip to the Golden Mile Food Centre, trying out as many dishes as we could possibly manage, one of our favourites being the sticky, crispy Claypot Chicken Rice. The girls became the centre of attention of the Singaporean Chinese ladies running the drinks stall. The girls were mostly fixated on the manual sugar cane press, where the ladies were making fresh juice for the locals.  They did, however, opt for the neon grape Fanta as their drink of choice whilst we chose the ice cold Tiger beers.

“You so lucky, you have two girls, they bring you luck. And they so beautiful with white hair. Not like me, my hair is black, yuck yuck.” she said, tugging at the grey-streaked raven hair on the side of her head and laughing as she walked away.

“You so lucky.”

On Sundays, here in Wales, we like to recreate dishes we first tried when travelling, as a way to transport us back in the moment and relive the memory. One of our favourites has become the Hawker Centre classic, Hainanese Chicken Rice. Sometimes we even break out the chopsticks. And there is only one man out there who can accompany us on our Sunday afternoon food sessions, Travel for Food YouTuber, Mark Wiens. If food excites you, this is the perfect channel to satisfy your international cuisine cravings.

Another famous Hawker Centre we visited was in the centre of Singapore’s Chinatown. A feast for the eyes with its magnificent display of vibrant colours and shops and a feast for the stomach when you venture inside. The stalls with the longest queues are good. No matter what they’re selling. Locals eat here as well as tourists and queues of locals are always a good sign. 

On our first trip to Chinatown in 2010, we wanted to buy a Chinese dress for the little one. Unsure of the sizing, the ladies at the stall rushed out to help.

“What size?”

“6 months” I said.

She cast her eye over Koko in her buggy.  “For baby, size 2, but for chubby white baby …. size 4”.

After our evening jaunt to the food centre, we would return to the hotel for a ‘night swim’. There is something exciting about the swimming pool in the dark, illuminated by the lights of tinseltown and this hotel’s rooftop swimming pool offered a spectacular view of the Singapore evening skyline. 

Our 2018 trip featured more planned activities than that of 2010, mostly to allow the girls some say in the days’ events. Their choice included a memorable cable car ride out to Sentosa island, a fun filled day in Adventure Cove Waterpark and a trip to the viewing platform on the ship at the top of Marina Bay Sands. We first visited MBS shortly after its opening in 2010, when a standard entry ticket would gain you access to view the vertigo-inducing 200m-high infinity pool. These days, you can only gain access to the pool by booking a night in the hotel, much to the delight of the hotels’ guests. 

Whilst undoubtedly a tourist magnet, Gardens by the Bay is an incredible educational experience for all, as well as providing welcome relief from the heat and humidity. In 2018 there was a spectacular Orchid extravaganza, in addition to the two huge biomes, children’s garden, sky walk….. let’s just say it is well worth the crowds. 

As is the cable car ride out to Sentosa. Now, we’re not big on theme parks at all, so Sentosa itself offered little by the way of cultural experience, but the cable car was awesome. Spectacular views over Sentosa Island and its sprawling parks and resorts, and also a bird’s eye view of Singapore. There’s no doubt we’re more fascinated by transport than theme parks, and this hit the spot. 

Boon Tat Street (Satay Street) comes alive at night, when the road is closed and the city workers spill out of their offices to feast on satay and jugs of beer. About ten satay stalls run a perfectly executed operation in the sweltering evening heat. After choosing your stall and ordering your satay selection, the drinks waiter comes to take your order. Then the Naan bread waiter. And then, just as you’ve tucked into your charcoal roasted skewers dripping in satay sauce, the wet wipe waiter conveniently appears to sell you overpriced but much needed wipes to clean those sticky satay fingertips. 

That brings me onto Raffles. Probably Singapore’s most iconic site. We have been to Raffles three times and yet never been inside. With a Singapore Sling costing a budget breaking €30 in 2010, we instead decided to stand outside for a photo and considered that Raffles done. There is a frugal Scottish heritage within me that would point blank refuse to buy in to such tourist extortion. And in truth, I’d take an ice cold Tsingtao, sitting on a plastic chair any day. 

There is a reason we have been to Singapore three times. And I would go back tomorrow in a heartbeat. What would I do if I went back? Just be there. Not feel the pressure of having to do everything and being able to live in the moment. I hold the fondest memories of street strolling, browsing, observing. Of sweat soaked walks along Orchard Street and heavy downpours of rain pushing a buggy along Bencoolen. These things don’t cost a penny yet they are probably the most valuable moments of all. It has been the simplest of travel experiences that have brought us the most happiness.

For if life is planned too carefully, there is no room for magic to happen.